Day 1: Pokhara to Ulleri via Nayapul
A short drive, then the famous stone staircase
1.5–2 hrs drive, 4–5 hrs walk · 2,070 m
Our day begins with a drive from Pokhara to Nayapul and ends with the steepest climb of the trek, the stone staircase to Ulleri. You gain about 1,000 m today, from 1,070 m at Nayapul to 2,070 m at Ulleri.
We leave Pokhara after breakfast, around 8 am. The road climbs out of the Pokhara valley through Lumle and Naudanda, and on a clear morning you can see Machhapuchhre and the Annapurna range behind you. The drive takes 1.5 to 2 hours. When the road is in good condition, the jeep continues past Nayapul to Tikhedhunga, which saves you about two hours of walking.
From Nayapul, a short walk brings you to Birethanti (1,025 m), where the Modi Khola and Bhurungdi Khola rivers meet. Your guide shows your ACAP permit at the checkpoint here. The trail then follows the Bhurungdi Khola upstream through Hile to Tikhedhunga (1,540 m), crossing suspension bridges and passing rice terraces, buffalo sheds and small tea houses. This part is mostly gentle and a good warm-up.
After Tikhedhunga, the trail crosses the river and climbs more than 3,000 stone steps to Ulleri, gaining about 500 m in 2 to 3 hours. This is the hardest section of the whole trek, and it comes on Day 1. Take small steps, rest often and drink water. Mules use the same stairs, so always step to the hillside when a mule train passes.
Ulleri is a Magar village spread along the hillside, with stone houses, slate roofs and views back down the valley. Tonight you stay in a family-run lodge with twin rooms. Some rooms have attached bathrooms, and hot showers are usually available for a small fee.
Walking time is 4 to 5 hours from Nayapul, or 2 to 3 hours if the jeep reaches Tikhedhunga. Withdraw all the cash you need in Pokhara, because there are no ATMs on the trek. Lodges sell bottled water, but a refillable bottle with purification tablets or a filter is cheaper and creates less plastic waste.












